Peter Carl Fabergé (1846–1920) was born into a family of jewellers in St. Petersburg, Russia. Of Huguenot origin, his ancestors had fled from France first to Germany, then to Russia, where they had settled by the early 19th century. For his education Fabergé studied in Dresden, Germany, and from there travelled to England to learn the language, as well as visiting France and Italy. On his travels he would have had the chance to study the objects in some of Europe’s finest galleries, and we can see these influences throughout his work. He took over his father’s workshop in 1870 and moved it to larger premises on the same street in St Petersburg, where he was joined by his younger brother in 1882.

By the late 19th century, Fabergé's workshop had become one of the most celebrated jewellery houses in Europe, renowned for its innovative designs and exquisite craftsmanship. His fame grew significantly when he was appointed the official court jeweller to the Russian Tsars, notably Tsar Nicholas II. Fabergé's creations were sought after by the Russian elite, European aristocracy, and collectors from around the world. To fulfil the ever-increasing demand his workshops grew to employ some 500 craftsmen, supervised by his workmasters Michael Perkhin, Henrik Wigstrom, August Holmstrom, August Hollming and Erik Kollin among many others.

The Hub of Enamelling Innovation

The history of enamelling dates back thousands of years, but it was during the late 19th century that Peter Carl Fabergé transformed it into a highly sophisticated art form.  And though Fabergé is perhaps best known for his creation of the famous Fabergé eggs, his artistry in enamelling was fundamental to the success and enduring appeal of his entire body of work. Enamel was a medium that Fabergé exploited with unmatched skill, elevating it from a traditional decorative feature to a central component of his designs.  

Enamelling, the process of fusing powdered glass to metal at high temperatures to create a colourful, durable finish, was a technique that had been used in jewellery and decorative arts for centuries. Fabergé elevated this ancient craft by developing his own distinct style and pushing the boundaries of the technique. Under his guidance, Fabergé's workshops became the hub of enamelling innovation, producing pieces that were not only technically flawless but also infused with artistic brilliance. (Lot 9 and Lot 69).

Cloisonné Enamelling

Fabergé employed a variety of enamelling techniques that contributed to the uniqueness of his work. One of the most notable methods was cloisonné enamelling, in which thin metal strips were used to outline designs on a metal surface. These metal partitions, or cloisons, were filled with powdered enamel and fired, creating vibrant, intricate patterns that highlighted the delicacy and precision of Fabergé’s work. This technique allowed for the creation of highly detailed motifs, often inspired by nature, Russian folklore, and imperial symbols. Cloisonné enamel was being used by many of Fabergé’s contemporaries, such as Khlebnikov and Ovchinnikov to decorate silver and silver gilt objects (Lot 36 and Lot 30), however even on this more traditional Russian technique Fabergé made his impact and taste felt, by considerably extending the colour palette used. (Lot 39)

Guilloché Enamelling

Another important technique was guilloché enamelling, in which a metal object was engraved with a delicate pattern, and then thin layers of translucent enamel were applied over the surface. The light would pass through the enamel, creating a shimmering effect that enhanced the engraved design beneath. Guilloché enamelling was particularly popular in Fabergé’s pieces, such as the famous egg-shaped pendants and ornamental boxes. The interplay between the engraving and the enamel created a captivating visual texture, making the pieces appear to glow with an inner light (Lot 56, Lot 59 and Lot 78). To further elevate this, his workmasters would sometimes alternate colour of enamel in the layering to create opalescent enamel or even paint patterns on before the final layer of enamel, to create beautiful effects (Lot 71 and Lot 75). These translucent enamels were often contrasted with opaque black or white enamel to create stunning patterns and effects (Lot 11, Lot 105 and Lot 103)

Pâte-de-verre and Plique-a-jour Enamelling

In addition to cloisonné and guilloché, Fabergé also experimented with pâte-de-verre and plique-a-jour enamelling, further demonstrating his commitment to pushing the boundaries of the medium. Each piece of enamelled jewellery or object required an extraordinary level of skill and precision, as the process demanded exacting control over temperature, timing, and application.

Fabergé’s Easter Eggs

Fabergé’s Easter eggs are perhaps his most famous works, and many of these masterpieces feature intricate enamelling. The eggs were initially commissioned by Tsar Alexander III as a gift for his wife, Maria Feodorovna, and later continued under Tsar Nicholas II. Each egg was a marvel of innovation, incorporating elaborate designs, hidden surprises, and, of course, dazzling enamel work.

The Fabergé eggs, with their combination of gold, enamel, and gemstones, exemplified the jeweller's mastery of enamelling techniques. The 1895 Imperial Coronation Egg, for instance, featured a luxurious design that included the use of translucent blue enamel, with intricate patterns of gold and diamonds. The enamel work, especially in the eggs, showcased Fabergé’s ability to create designs that were not only visually stunning but also subtly enhanced by the interplay of light and colour.

Beyond the famous Imperial Easter Eggs, Fabergé created countless other pieces, including pendants, cigarette cases, and brooches, that incorporated his signature enamelling techniques. (Lot 77, Lot 60 and Lot 62) His works transcended simple luxury, becoming symbols of imperial power, sophistication, and a devotion to beauty.

The Legacy of Fabergé

The legacy of Fabergé’s enamelling techniques is profound. Fabergé’s work was revolutionary not only because of the technical skill involved but also because of its artistic depth. He successfully fused the rich traditions of Russian craftsmanship with the opulence of European art nouveau, creating a new standard for luxury and creativity. His masterpieces continue to inspire modern artisans and remain highly prized by collectors today.

The decline of the Russian Empire and the Russian Revolution led to the eventual closing of Fabergé’s workshops, but his legacy endured. Today, many of his works are housed in museums such as the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg and the Kremlin Armoury, where visitors can marvel at the exquisite artistry and technical skill that went into every piece. Fabergé’s influence is still seen in contemporary jewellery design, as his fusion of delicate artistry and craftsmanship serves as a model for modern jewellers striving, but rarely succeeding in achieving similar levels of perfection

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Auction Details

This is a live auction taking place on Wednesday 19 March, 10.30am GMT at Dreweatts, Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE, UK.

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