On Tuesday 16 June, our Fine Jewellery auction features an elegant selection of pearl jewellery, showcasing the enduring appeal of one of nature's most captivating gems. Ahead of the auction, Head of Jewellery, Charlotte Peel explores the fascinating world of pearls, from their rich history and symbolism to the differences between natural and cultured pearls. She also considers their versatility, enduring wearability and the best ways to care for these timeless treasures.
For centuries, pearls have been among the most coveted treasures in the world. Revered for their rarity, beauty and symbolism, they have adorned royalty, nobility and cultural icons across generations. At various points in history, natural pearls were considered even more valuable than diamonds, prized for the extraordinary circumstances required for their formation and discovery.
Their significance extends beyond adornment. Pearls have long been associated with purity, wisdom and prosperity, appearing in religious texts and historical records throughout the world. The Bible likens the Kingdom of Heaven to a pearl of great price, while the Quran describes the dwellers of paradise as being adorned with pearls. Throughout the history of portraiture, pearls have remained a powerful symbol of status and refinement.
One of the most celebrated examples is Queen Elizabeth I's Armada Portrait, in which the monarch is depicted draped in pearls, reinforcing her image of power and majesty. Monarchs, aristocrats and society figures have continued this tradition over the centuries. More recently, style icons such as Coco Chanel, Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy helped cement pearls as an enduring hallmark of elegance and sophistication.
The exceptional value of natural pearls lies in their rarity. Before the development of cultured pearls, pearl divers risked their lives descending to depths of up to 20 metres using only the most rudimentary equipment. Thousands of oysters might be opened before a single pearl was discovered, and finding one with a perfectly round shape was even more extraordinary.
The pearl industry was transformed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by the pioneering work of Japanese entrepreneur Kokichi Mikimoto. By introducing a small bead into an oyster, he developed a method of cultivating pearls that would become known as cultured pearls. While still formed through the oyster's natural process of layering nacre, cultured pearls could be produced more reliably and with greater consistency in shape.
Today, strict environmental protections and regulations surrounding pearl harvesting have further increased the scarcity of natural pearls. As a result, fine natural pearl jewellery has become increasingly sought after by collectors, connoisseurs and jewellery enthusiasts alike.
In our forthcoming auction, we are delighted to offer an exceptional four-row natural pearl necklace. From the collection of a lady of title, it was discovered among a larger group of cultured and imitation pearl necklaces. It was only when the necklace's finely crafted clasp attracted closer attention that the pearls themselves were examined, revealing a remarkable treasure hidden amongst more ordinary examples.
Natural pearls of this quality are highly sought after. The necklace embodies many of the characteristics most prized by collectors: impressive uniformity, elegant graduation and a luminous white appearance that showcases the beauty of the nacre. The careful matching of the pearls across four graduated rows creates a striking sense of balance and harmony, while their soft, reflective lustre lends the jewel an understated sophistication.
Such necklaces are increasingly difficult to encounter on the market. The skill and patience required to assemble a jewel of this scale and quality, using naturally formed pearls selected for their consistency and beauty, cannot be overstated. Combining rarity, craftsmanship and timeless elegance, this necklace represents a particularly noteworthy offering in the sale.
An additional feature of this necklace is its ingenious clasp, which allows two strands to be removed. This enables the piece to be worn either as a magnificent four-row necklace for grand occasions or as one of two double-row necklaces for more understated elegance.
Such versatility enhances both its practicality and appeal, offering multiple styling possibilities while preserving the necklace's historic character.
As an organic gemstone, pearls require thoughtful care to preserve their beauty. When storing pearl jewellery, it is advisable to wrap pieces in silk or soft cotton and to avoid cotton wool, which can absorb moisture from the pearls. Care should also be taken to prevent strands from rubbing against one another.
To preserve their natural lustre, pearls should never be worn with perfumes, hairsprays or scented creams, as these substances can damage the delicate surface of the nacre.
Tuesday 16 June 2026, 10.30am BST
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE
Bidding is available in person at our salerooms, online, by telephone or you can leave commission (absentee) bids.
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Dreweatts London: 16-17 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5LU
Tuesday 9 June: 10am-4pm
Wednesday 10 June: 10am-4pm
Dreweatts Newbury: Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE
Saturday 13 June: 10am-3pm
Sunday 14 June: 10am-3pm
Monday 15 June: 10am-4pm
Further Information
General enquiries: + 44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com
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