This fine and rare Chinese Manchu lady’s informal jacket is from the Qing Dynasty, circa 1870-1880. This style of jacket became highly fashionable at the Qing court from the mid-19th century onwards. Worn by Manchu courtiers over long robes, it provided both warmth and an elegant finishing layer. Known as a Magua, the garment was widely adopted at the court of the Empress Dowager Cixi, becoming a defining element of dress for women of the Imperial court. Cixi herself, along with her ladies-in-waiting, noblewomen and members of the imperial family, were frequently photographed wearing such jackets.

Given the exceptional quality and craftsmanship of this example, it is likely to have been worn by a royal lady of very high standing in the Imperial court.

Set on a bright blue satin silk ground, the jacket is adorned with butterflies, symbolising abundance, happy relationships, joy, love, freedom, transformation, youth and beauty. Each butterfly is delicately embroidered in high quality multi coloured silk threads. The original borders and cuffs are equally embroidered with further butterflies on deep blue and cream silk, and edged with a patterned ribbon in pink and green.

The jacket includes its original lining in an attractive bright pink silk. Opening at the front, it is fashioned with its original loop and button closure. The four flat buttons are stamped ‘treble gilt’ and include embossed detailing.

A Gift To Actress Lydia Bilbrook

The jacket was acquired by the current owner’s grandfather, George Harrison Brown, a journalist who travelled to China in the 1930s. The jacket was gifted to his wife, the actress Lydia Bilbrook (1888–1990). It later passed to their daughter, Felicity Whittaker (née Brown) of Bromham Hall, Bedfordshire, and has since descended through the family. 

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Auction Details

Wednesday 20 & Thursday 21 May, 2026
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE

Bidding is available in person at our salerooms, online, by telephone or you can leave commission (absentee) bids.

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