Georgian Origins: George Wickes

The origins of the company can be traced back to George Wickes (1698–1761), who was one of the most accomplished London gold and silversmiths of his generation. In 1722, Wickes entered his mark at Goldsmiths’ Hall and began trading from Threadneedle Street, placing his workshop at the centre of the City’s goldsmithing and luxury trades. He was soon renowned for his technical excellence and fashionable tastes. In 1735, he relocated the business to Panton Street, off the Haymarket, and continued to offer jewellery, silver, and other luxury goods. His reputation brought him the patronage of Frederick, Prince of Wales, who appointed him Goldsmith, Jeweller and Silversmith to the Prince of Wales, establishing the firm’s first formal royal connection.

From Apprentices to Dynasty

Wickes' former apprentices John Parker and Edward Wakelin purchased the firm in 1760 and continued to serve a distinguished clientele, which included the Duke of Cumberland and his nephew Prince Henry. Like many leading workshops of the period, the firm relied on a network of specialist silversmiths, including Ebenezer Coker, William Chawner, and members of the Hennell family. In 1776, Edward Wakelin’s son John took over the running of the firm in partnership with William Taylor. Following Taylor’s death in 1792, Robert Garrard (1758–1818) became a partner, marking the beginning of the Garrard family’s long association with the business. In 1802, Garrard purchased the firm outright and assumed sole control, establishing a family ownership that would continue for more than a century and a half.

Ascendancy in the Nineteenth Century

When Robert Garrard died in 1818, the business passed to his three sons Robert Garrard II (1793–1881), James Garrard (1795–1870), and Sebastian Garrard (1798–1870), trading as R., J. & S. Garrard, later known as Robert Garrard & Brothers. Under the guiding influence of Robert Garrard II, the firm entered one of the most significant periods in its history. Between 1818 and the mid-1830s, Garrard developed into one of Europe’s most prestigious silversmithing and jewellery firms, appearing at the forefront of British luxury production. This status was further enhanced in 1830, following the accession of King William IV, when Garrard succeeded Rundell, Bridge & Rundell, the firm associated with Paul Storr, as Crown Goldsmiths. After James Garrard’s retirement in 1835, the firm changed its trading name to R & S Garrard, and James became Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company in 1847–48 and 1850–51. In 1843, Garrard was formally appointed Crown Jewellers, assuming responsibility for the design and production of jewellery and silverware for the royal family, as well as for the care and maintenance of the Crown Jewels. This appointment, held for 164 years until 2007, remains one of the longest continuous royal warrants in British history.

Crown Jewellers and the Great Exhibition

Garrard’s artistic excellence was proudly displayed at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London, where the firm exhibited 83 works. These ranged from revivalist silver, including a ewer in sixteenth-century style and a Queen Anne–style candlestick, to ambitious sculptural groups, among them a composition depicting Queen Victoria’s dogs. Silver sculpture proved particularly successful, and during the 1850s Garrard became closely associated with dramatic figural groups, often depicting Arab hunting scenes and desert life - highly fashionable subjects in the mid 19th century. Much of this work was designed by Edmund Cotterill (1795–1860), who had become head designer in 1833, and was responsible for many of the firm’s most important presentation pieces, notably the racing trophies for Ascot, Goodwood, and Doncaster. Other designers and modellers associated with the firm included Edward L. Percy; Harrison Weir; and William F. Spencer, who succeeded Cotterill as head designer.

Leadership of the firm passed in 1881 to James Mortimer Garrard (1834–1900), a nephew of Robert Garrard II, and subsequently in 1900 to Sebastian H. Garrard (1868–1946). They both entered their own maker’s marks at Goldsmiths Hall in 1881 and 1900 when they took over the running of the company. In 1909, the firm was incorporated as Garrard & Co. Ltd, and in 1911 relocated to Albemarle Street.

Twentieth-Century Royal Commissions

One of Garrard’s most celebrated royal commissions came in 1910, when the firm undertook the re-setting of the Cullinan Diamonds in the Crown Jewels. Garrard set the Cullinan I diamond into the Sovereign’s Sceptre; incorporated the other Cullinan diamonds into the Imperial State Crown and Queen Mary’s Crown, and also created a spectacular brooch from the diamonds. During the firm's years as Crown Jeweller, Garrard was responsible for many of the iconic pieces that are part of the British Crown Jewels, as well as the personal jewels for the Royal Family. These include the Coronation Necklace and Earrings made for Queen Victoria, and later worn at the coronations of Queens Alexandra, Mary, Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother), Elizabeth II, and Queen Camilla; the Coronation Crown for Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mother) in 1937, featuring the Koh-i-Noor diamond; Queen Victoria’s sapphire brooch, circlet tiara, and small diamond crown; the Poltimore Tiara created for Princess Margaret; and, more recently the sapphire and diamond engagement ring originally given to Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, and later presented by Prince William to Catherine Middleton, now Princess of Wales.

Modern History and Legacy

In the post war period, Garrard went through several amalgamations and changes of ownership. In 1952, Garrard merged with The Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Company, and moved from Albemarle Street to Regent Street. Four years later the firm was sold to Mappin & Webb Ltd, part of the Sears Group. Further changes followed in 1990, when Garrard was acquired by the Asprey Group, becoming Asprey & Garrard in 1998, before being demerged under new ownership in 2002.

Despite these changes of ownership, Garrard’s association with ceremonial and presentation silver has endured. The firm continues to produce silver trophy cups for major international sporting events, including the America’s Cup and the Saudi Cup, maintaining a tradition of craftsmanship and prestige that extends over three centuries.

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