The Allure of the Chanel Handbag

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel designed the first Chanel bag in the early 1920s.  Ever practical and tired of carrying her bag in her hands, she drew inspiration from soldiers’ backpacks and added an extended strap to her own design so that it could be worn over the shoulder.

The Chanel 2.55 bag

After World War II, in February 1955, she launched a quilted version with a long chain strap, known as the 2.55 handbag. Available in three sizes and crafted from lambskin, jersey, or silk satin, the bag featured a front flap with a rectangular turn lock, known as ‘the Mademoiselle lock’. The two sets of eyelets for the metal strap provided versatility, allowing it to be carried by hand or worn over the shoulder. Key elements of the bag make it instantly recognisable as a Chanel, including the signature diamond quilting, which was inspired by equestrian gear, and the gilt metal chain-link strap which is often interwoven with leather.

The brilliance of the Chanel bag lies in its versatility. For over seventy years, it has seamlessly complemented any outfit, whether worn with jeans or a black-tie ensemble, looking effortlessly chic and meticulously styled. The design has not only made its way into our wardrobes but also into our cultural imagination. Whether held by Audrey Hepburn’s character Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's or draped over Princess Diana’s shoulder during a royal visit, the bag exudes a timeless sense of sophistication.

The C-Clasp Lock

In the 1980s, the classic Flap bag was reintroduced by the brands Creative Director, Karl Lagerfeld. As seen in this Chanel Maxi Classic, black caviar Flap bag which sold at Dreweatts for £4,000. Lagerfeld added a modern twist to honour the brands history, the c-clasp lock, which mirrored the brands ‘CC’ logo that was designed by Coco Chanel in 1925. Over the years, several iterations of the bag have emerged, but the overall allure of the Chanel handbag remains unchanged.

The Chanel Diana

In the late 1980s, Chanel’s Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld designed the Chanel Diana handbag, which was influenced by one of his muses, and global style icon of the time, Princess Diana. The design is similar to the classic Flap bag but has a wider trim around the clasp, the bag became a favourite of the Princess thus catapulting it into the global spotlight. The design was discontinued in 1995 and perhaps due to its relatively short production run and the media attention it received, the Chanel Diana remains one of the more coveted vintage Chanel pieces. A black quilted lambskin Diana handbag with gold tone hardware and chain handle sold at auction with Dreweatts for £2,374.

The Chanel Boy Bag

The Chanel Boy bag was first released in 2011 and remains a mainstay of Chanel bag collections every season. This sleek bag is inspired by a cartridge bag and named after Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel. Boy Capel was not only Gabrielle Chanel's great love, but was also her muse and boyfriend of nine years. Dreweatts have sold a Chanel Boy black calfskin quilted leather shoulder bag for £2,000 and a Chanel Boy red calfskin quilted leather shoulder bag for £2,500 in past auctions, which stand out thanks to their framed, rectangular Flap and double 'CC' push-button clasp.

The Chanel Brand History and Legacy

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was born on 19 August 1883, in Saumur, France. After her mother’s death, she was raised in an orphanage, where nuns taught her to sew—a skill that would shape her future career in fashion. The imagery of the convent, including crosses, stained glass, and the nuns' black and white habits, influenced her later designs.

In her early adulthood, Chanel worked as a singer in cafés and earned the nickname "Coco." She opened her first shop in Paris in 1910 with the help of her lover Etienne Balsan, initially selling hats. After creating a dress from a jersey while on holiday, she gained popularity, and by the 1920s, she revolutionized women’s fashion with more comfortable and elegant styles, like the Chanel suit and little black dress. Chanel also freed women from restrictive corsets during World War I, emphasising simplicity and practicality.

Chanel’s brand grew through the 1920s, and in 1921, she launched the iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume. By the 1930s, her minimalist yet luxurious style dominated the fashion world. Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971, leaving a legacy that continues to inspire the world of fashion and creativity.

Luxury Chanel Handbag Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers handbags and luxury accessories from brands such as Chanel at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for luxury accessories is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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For a free auction valuation, please contact the Dreweatts Luxury Accessories Department on: +44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com or complete our online valuation form here.