The world-famous French brand Hermès has become highly sought-after within the luxury fashion market. The brand was established by Thierry Hermès (1801-1878) in Paris in 1837, intending to create the finest harnesses and bridals for the carriage trade. He understood and anticipated his customer's expectations and adapted his products to meet their desire for simplicity and lightness in a growing modern city. This insight, adaptability and technical skillset was recognised with an award at the Universal Exhibition of 1867.
By the 1920s Hermès branched into the luxury accessory market, forming the brand we are more familiar with today. Hermès are now renowned for their silk scarves, jewellery, homeware and are widely recognised for their selection of coveted handbags. Their iconic Birkin and Kelly designs have graced the arms of both royalty and the fashionable elite. Read on to learn more about this iconic brand and some of the items that have come to auction at Dreweatts.
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To this day, each handbag is meticulously handmade by a single Hermès artisan. It is crafted with premium leather and finished with the maker’s stamp, a skilled process that can take up to 18 hours to complete an individual bag. Originally, these bags were only available through a long waitlist and while the waitlist has since been eliminated, purchasing one is still far from simple, requiring customers to jump through the brand’s stringent hoops in order to be offered the opportunity to purchase a bag. This exclusivity has only increased Hermès' appeal, making its bags highly valuable in the auction market, such as this Birkin 40, tan togo leather handbag, which sold for £7,308.
The design inspiration for the Birkin bag struck Jean-Louis Dumas, Executive Chairman of Hermès (1978-2006), during a flight from Paris to London in 1984. Sat next to French actress, singer and fashion icon Jane Birkin, Jean-Louis Dumas saw her with a straw travelling bag, struggling to place it in the overhead compartment as her belongings fell out. She had complained to him that she couldn’t find a suitable bag that could contain all of her ever-growing contents as a young mother, leading Dumas to create the bag in her namesake. The bags are available in a wide selection of calf and exotic ‘Hermès leathers’ which are sourced from all over the world. Grained Hermès leathers such as Togo, Epsom and Clemence continue to be among the most popular due to their durability. Featured below in a blue jean coloured Togo leather is a Hermès Birkin 30 which sold at Dreweatts for £7,308.
Another timeless and elegant design from Hermes is the Kelly bag, which was created in the 1930s and was initially called the ‘sac à dépêches’. Demand for the design skyrocketed in 1957 when Hollywood actress and Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, used the bag to conceal her growing baby bump. The stylish classic design is still in high demand to this day with a 1970s brown box calf leather Kelly handbag, selling at auction for £3,150.
In the late 1920s, Hermès introduced its first jewellery collection, marking the beginning of a legacy in high-end craftsmanship. Over the years, the brand has expanded its offerings with numerous iconic collections, including the Cavalier line, which pays tribute to Hermès' equestrian heritage. Drawing inspiration from the intricate details of buckles, harnesses, and saddles, the collection masterfully blends refined artistry with a nod to the brand’s storied roots in the equestrian world.
Another landmark collection is the Chaîne d'Ancre, which was created in 1937 by Robert Dumas after a trip to the Normandy coast. Captivated by the anchor chains on local boats, Dumas translated this motif into the now-iconic design. More than 80 years later, the Chaîne d'Ancre continues to be a symbol of timeless elegance and has remained a staple in Hermès' jewellery offerings. In 2023, a broad silver Chaîne d'Ancre bracelet was sold at auction for £1,197, emphasising the enduring appeal and value of the design.
In the early 2000s Hermès tapped into people’s desire to buy into the brand with the creation of their ‘Clic Clac’ bangles which cleverly incorporate their signature ‘H’ monogram. The monogram functions as a clasp which makes a ‘click’ sound as it opens and closes, henceforth the bangles became known as 'clic clac'! Available in a wide selection of brightly coloured enamels and finishes the bangles have a broad appeal. A selection of these ‘Clic Clac’ bangles were recently offered in Jewellery, watches and Luxury Accessories auction at Dreweatts.
In 1937, Robert Dumas created the brand's first Carré silk scarf, this stylish accessory became an instant success and was worn by the likes of Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn, further increasing its popularity. The scarves were created using high-quality Chinese silk and often adorned with bold and colourful patterns which were created with woodblock printing. Carré, meaning "square," measures 90x90 cm and offers endless styling possibilities. It's simple yet versatile design can be worn in numerous ways—whether around the neck, as a belt, a headscarf, or even as a chic accessory for the handles of a Birkin bag.
This Les Cavaliers d'or silk scarf was created by Hermès scarf designer Vladimir Rybaltchenko and boasts a rich ochre tone motif decoration, that has become synonymous with the brand and has been incorporated in the scarves for many decades, proving it to be a timeless classic. Other popular designs bear depictions of landscapes, floral motifs and animals. This Feuilles d'Automne design wonderfully encapsulates the Autumn season with its portrayal of autumnal leaves blowing in the wind. Hermès silk scarves frequently appear in our jewellery and luxury accessory auctions, explore our current jewellery and luxury accessory auctions.
Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery and luxury accessories from fashion houses such as Hermès at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery and luxury accessories is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.
For a free auction valuation, please contact the department on: +44 (0) 1635 553 553 jsw@dreweatts.com or complete our online valuation form here.
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