The Cartier Panther

The panther first appeared in Cartier designs in 1914, when the brand introduced a panther motif on a ladies’ wristwatch with onyx and diamonds. Representing power, elegance, and femininity, the panther has been a prominent feature in Cartier's jewellery, watches, and accessories, remaining a consistently popular motif. In the 1930s, Cartier's creative director Jeanne Toussaint, played a key role in developing the panther as a signature symbol of the brand. She was nicknamed "La Panthère" for her bold and sophisticated style. During her time at Cartier, she famously designed a three-dimensional panther brooch for The Duchess of Windsor. Perched atop a 152.35-carat sapphire cabochon, the panther boasts captivating circular cut emerald eyes and a black enamelled nose with a body set with pavé sapphires and white and yellow diamonds.

Dreweatts has had the pleasure of offering exquisite Cartier Panthère pieces at auction, including a stunning Cartier Maillon Panthère brick-link necklace featuring vibrant emerald eyes and a black enamel nose, which sold for £17,640. The iconic Panthère is portrayed in a stylish 1990s collar necklace which sold with Dreweatts for £11,970. Other remarkable examples include a bespoke diamond and gemstone set pendant, adorned with pavé set brilliant cut diamonds, pear-cut emerald eyes, and an onyx nose, which sold for £18,900.

Another striking piece, a Massai Panthère ring, showcases Cartier’s signature craftsmanship. Mounted in white gold, the design elegantly curls to form a ring, with the panther’s head featuring pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds, captivating pear-shaped emerald eyes, and a sculpted onyx nose. This stunning piece sold at Dreweatts for £13,860.

The Cartier Love Collection

The Love bracelet is recognised as one of Cartier’s most iconic pieces of jewellery, which is known for its simple yet elegant design. First designed in 1969 by designer Aldo Cipullo, the solid oval-shaped bracelet is typically made from gold either in yellow, white or rose and sometimes in platinum. Symbolising eternal love and commitment, the bracelet is famously designed to be locked with a small screwdriver, which traditionally only the giver keeps, representing the idea of being "locked in love." The design embraces the screw and incorporates it into the design with engraved screw motifs featured around the circumference. This elegant 18 carat gold love bracelet sold at Dreweatts for £3,528. The design has been associated with luxury and exclusivity, it is often seen as a status symbol and popular amongst celebrities and high-profile individuals. The screw motif has since evolved and been used to create Cartier earrings, pendants and rings such as this 18 carat gold diamond set Cartier Love ring which sold at Dreweatts for £1,764.

Amethyst and Turquoise

Cartier’s visionary creative director Jeanne Toussaint worked closely with the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to create one of the most remarkable jewellery collections of the 20th century. The couple often supplied gemstones from older pieces, which Cartier transformed into bold, modern designs.

In 1947, the Duke of Windsor commissioned a necklace for Wallis Simpson, providing amethysts and diamonds from his collection. Toussaint designed the now-iconic bib necklace, pairing vibrant turquoise with deep amethyst. This daring colour combination set a trend throughout the 1940s and 1950s, inspiring countless designs that showcased the striking harmony of these stones.

At Dreweatts, we have had the privilege of handling several exceptional Cartier creations in this style, including an amethyst, turquoise and diamond brooch, which achieved £13,860, a pair of amethyst, turquoise and diamond earrings, which sold for £15,120 and a spectacular Cartier amethyst, turquoise and diamond brooch, modelled as a Kookaburra which realised £27,700.

The Pharaon Collection

The Cartier Pharaon collection is a distinctive line of jewellery created in the late 20th century, with most pieces dating to the 1990s. Its name, meaning “Pharaoh” in French, reflects the collection’s inspiration from the majesty of ancient Egypt. A key hallmark of the collection is Cartier’s iconic panther motif, which appears in procession across many pieces, symbolising elegance and power. Reeded borders are another common detail, lending the jewellery a refined, architectural quality.

The forms are dramatic and statement-making, including wide cuff bracelets, sprung bangles, torque-style collars, and rigid necklaces reminiscent of ceremonial ornaments. Examples include bangles adorned with multiple panthers framed by reeded edges, rings with smaller repeating panther motifs, and heavy torque necklaces weighing hundreds of grams. The aesthetic blends Art Deco geometry with Egyptian stylisation, creating jewellery that feels both timeless and rooted in its era.

Excellent examples of the Pharaon style have sold at Dreweatts, including a Cartier 'Pharaon' bangle, circa 1990, which sold for £18,900 and a 'Pharaon' ring which achieved £5,000.

Cartier Tank Watches

The Cartier Tank was first created in 1917 and takes its name and inspiration from the Renault tanks used by the French forces on the Western Front during World War I. Louis Cartier moved away from the typical round dials of the time to create something distinctly modern. Since its original release, it has stood the test of time and has evolved into a number of different models but keeping the distinctive lines of the Tank case. With advancements in watchmaking technology, Cartier has powered the Tank with quartz movements, automatic calibers, chronographs, moonphases and further complications.

Throughout its history, the Cartier Tank has graced the wrists of numerous iconic figures, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Diana, Gary Cooper and Elizabeth Taylor who were all devoted fans of the Tank, while Andy Warhol famously remarked that he wore a Cartier Tank not to tell time, but because “it’s the watch to wear!”. An excellent example is this 18 carat gold and diamond lady’s Cartier, Tank Basculante watch, circa 2003, which sold at Dreweatts for £13,860.

Defined as one of the most recognisable watches ever produced, Dreweatts' Head of Luxury James Nicholson explores the history of Cartier’s iconic Tank, focusing on the contributions made by Cartier London during the 1960s and 1970s, and the recent surge in international interest in watches from this period...read more.

The History of Cartier

In 1847, French businessman, jeweller and watchmaker Louis-François Cartier took over the workshop of his master, Adolphe Picard, which was located at 29 rue Montorgueil in Paris, leading to the establishment of the foundation of the Maison Cartier. He catered to a growing middle class, selling fashionable items like Egyptian revival jewels and porcelain. But soon his clientele included the likes of Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenie who purchased a Cartier creation in 1856, which led to the popularity of Cartier amongst the Parisian high society and the international elite of the time.

Dividing and Conquering

In 1874, his son Alfred took charge and introduced the firm to international exhibitions, expanding their reach. Although few pieces from this era survive, archives reveal popular designs featuring flora, fauna, and large diamond set pieces. However, it was Alfred’s eldest son Louis who in 1898 joined his father in the business and renamed it Alfred Cartier et Fils. They moved to Rue de la Paix and opened a London branch in 1902. By this time Pierre, another brother, expanded to New York and by 1910 they held several Royal Warrants. The three brothers had taken the approach of ‘divide and conquer’ and whilst they excelled individually it was as a team that they were truly formidable.

Art Deco Design

With the rise of platinum, Cartier were able to create incredibly fine metal work frames in which to set their diamonds and coloured stones. Their beautiful Garland style was the height of sophistication at this time, but these would soon be superseded by the jewels created under the influence of Eastern exoticism. Designer Charles Jacqueau joined Cartier in 1909, inspired by Eastern art, he headed a team that, from 1911 to 1935, created an exceptional array of jewellery in what would come to be known as the Art Deco style - distinguishing Cartier for its creativity.

An excellent example of their Art Deco design is portrayed here in a pair of 1930s sapphire and diamond cufflinks. With an elegant open triangular formation, each cufflink is set with sugarloaf cabochon sapphires to the front and old European cut diamonds verso. The triangular configurations are joined with a platinum bar which is adorned with cabochon sapphire and old European cut diamond finials. They sold at Dreweatts for £5,670.⁠

Another spectacular example of their Art Deco design are these diamond and gem set brooches, circa 1934, which were commissioned by Sir Stephen Courtauld for his wife Lady Courtauld. One brooch features a falcon within a fetterlock frame. The falcon is pavé-set with single-cut diamonds, while the background is divided—one half adorned with cross-hatched pink tourmaline and the other with cross-hatched sapphire. The second brooch showcases a 'rose en soleil' design. A white Tudor rose, pavé-set with single-cut diamonds, has a cross-hatched citrine center. Encircling the rose is a sunburst frame, with one half set with kite-shaped sapphires and the other with kite-shaped pink tourmalines.

In 1933 the couple acquired Eltham Palace and began the transformation into the stunning red brick and stone Art Deco palace. Inspiration for the brooches was drawn from Eltham Place’s stained glass window designs by George Kruger Gray which can still be seen in the Great Hall. They resided at Eltham Palace for around eight years with their much loved pet ring tailed lemur Mah Jong.

Learn more about the Cartier Diamond and Gem Brooches from Eltham Palace

Cartier Auction Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery and watches from luxury brands such as Cartier at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery and watches is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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