In 1919, Mario founded his own Maison, Mario Buccellati, in Milan’s city centre, he quickly captivated the city’s elite with his exquisitely crafted jewels. His reputation for elegance and artistry soon spread beyond Italy and by 1921 he was exhibiting in Madrid, earning the patronage of the Spanish Royal Family, and by 1925 he had expanded with boutiques in Rome and Florence, solidifying Buccellati as a name synonymous with timeless luxury and refined craftsmanship.

The hallmark of Mario’s jewellery was his exceptional mastery of gold. Driven by a lifelong fascination with the metal and its limitless possibilities, he immersed himself in studying ancient techniques and experimenting with traditional tools to bring his creative vision to life. Deeply inspired by the Renaissance, he drew influence from its sumptuous fabrics, intricate damasks, and fine Venetian lace, elements he sought to reinterpret in his work. Mario elevated the craft of engraving to unprecedented levels, determined that no jewel should bear “untouched gold.” Every surface was enriched with a variety of engraving styles, transforming solid metal into creations that captured the lightness, fluidity, and texture of delicate textiles.

During the war, when gold was in short supply, Buccellati continued his craft by turning to alternative materials such as copper, which he plated with a gold-toned alloy known as ‘Dutch gold’. Ever inventive, he also reimagined the use of gemstones, setting old or chipped stones upside down to mimic the smooth, rounded allure of cabochons. This distinctive approach proved immensely popular, gracing not only jewellery but also accessories like compacts.

The Macri collection

Among Buccellati’s many collections, none perhaps captures the house’s signature engraving, subtle texture and timelessness quite like the Macri collection, which was created by Gianmaria Buccellati, Mario’s son, and was launched in the early 1980s.

Its name comes from the fusion of the initial syllables of his daughter, Maria Cristina (“Ma‑” from Maria, “Cri‑” from Cristina) — a tribute to her refinement and elegance. What made Macri distinct was its celebration of Buccellati’s most distinguished technique: rigato engraving. This involves meticulously hand‑engraving extremely fine parallel lines into the gold surface, creating a shimmering effect akin to satin or silk. In Macri pieces this texture becomes the canvas for subtle diamond rosettes (small stars) and polished gold beads that play with light and shadow. A Buccellati, Macri Giglio diamond cuff bangle sold at Dreweatts for £21,250.

The Étoilée Collection

The Étoilée collection, conceived in the 1990s by Andrea Buccellati, emerges as one of Buccellati’s signature lines that clearly showcases the Maison’s blend of traditional craftsmanship and poetic design. The core idea: “four yellow gold‑wrought chains that intertwine to produce a geometry of ellipses (or rhomboidal spaces), inside which small white‑gold lilies bloom, sometimes diamond‑set.” Thus, Étoilée combines movement, structure and nature while the interlocking chains provide rhythm; the geometry provides form; the lilies bring a delicate organic motif. A Étoilée bracelet sold at auction with Dreweatts for £10,625.

The Ramage Collection

The Ramage collection by Buccellati draws strongly on foliate motifs and craftsmanship rooted in the Renaissance tradition. According to the official collection page, “the ramage design, inspired by the Renaissance era, is a successful classic pattern by Buccellati, already popular in the 20’s.”

The term “ramage” itself relates to branching, foliage and leaves — and the collection honours this motif by featuring delicate gold work that mimics branches and tiny leaves, with diamonds “blossoming” from them. This line is part of Buccellati’s Icona series (their signature collection) and emphasises artisanal workmanship, open‑work gold, and naturalistic ornamentation. The marriage of Buccellati’s goldsmith tradition and elegant motif can be seen in this diamond ring which sold for £2,520.

A Family Legacy Spanning Four Generations

Mario’s son Gianmaria (b. 1929) began working alongside his father at the age of 14, mastering both the business and the craft of goldsmithing. When Mario passed away in 1965, Gianmaria assumed responsibility for the workshops and the creative direction of the company. Together with his brother Luca, he focused on expanding the business in the United States, while his brothers Lorenzo and Federico managed the Italian boutiques.

Over time, internal disputes led Gianmaria to establish his own boutiques under the Gianmaria Buccellati name, opening first in Hong Kong in 1970, followed by locations in the Middle East and across Europe. In 1979, the brand became the first Italian jeweller to take up residence on the prestigious Place Vendôme in Paris, joining the ranks of renowned French houses such as Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Cartier.

In 1973, Gianmaria co-founded the Italian Gemological Institute with a group of professional colleagues and served as its president for twenty-five years. His enduring commitment to both jewellery and the quality of gemstones is still evident in Buccellati pieces today. His son Andrea joined the company in 1978, collaborating closely with Gianmaria to continue the brand’s international expansion.

In 2000, the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C. hosted the exhibition Buccellati: Art in Gold, Silver, and Gems, celebrating the work of both Mario and Gianmaria.

In 2011, the Mario Buccellati and Gianmaria Buccellati brands were unified under the single name Buccellati. Two years later, they secured a deal with the Italian equity fund Clessidra, selling a majority stake in the company. Andrea assumed the role of President, a position he holds today, supported by his brother Gino, who oversees silverware production, and his sister Maria Cristina, responsible for PR.

In 2014, Andrea’s daughter Lucrezia joined the family business as co-Creative Director, becoming the first female designer in nearly a century of Buccellati history. Tasked with designing for younger generations, she is ensuring that the tradition of finely hand-crafted jewellery, for which Buccellati is world-renowned, continues and that her great-grandfather’s legacy endures for generations to come.

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery from luxury brands such as Buccellati at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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