On Wednesday 19 November, our Fine Jewellery auction includes pieces by Italian luxury jewellery and watch house Buccellati, who are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship and timeless artistry.
The brand was founded by Mario Buccellati, born in 1891 in Ancona, Italy. At the age of twelve, Mario began his apprenticeship with the Milanese goldsmith firm Beltrami & Besnati, where he developed the technical mastery that would later define his work. After World War I, in 1919, he took over the workshop and opened his first boutique in Milan, near La Scala, thus marking the birth of the Buccellati brand.
From the beginning, Mario Buccellati's creations stood out for their intricate metalwork and unique textures that evoked the richness of Renaissance and Baroque art. He drew inspiration from Venetian lace, nature, and architectural motifs, developing techniques that became signatures of the house. Among these are rigato, the fine engraving of parallel lines that give gold a silk-like texture; tulle, a delicate openwork pattern resembling lace; and telato, which makes metal appear like fabric. These methods, combined with the use of white and yellow gold, silver, and rare gemstones, gave Buccellati's pieces their unmistakable identity - refined, sculptural, and deeply rooted in Italian artistic tradition.
When Mario Buccellati passed away in 1965, his sons inherited both his artistic legacy and his commitment to excellence. Gianmaria Buccellati, born in 1929, became the creative and entrepreneurial force who would bring the house into the modern era.
More than a century after its founding, Buccellati continues to be celebrated for its dedication to craftsmanship, artistry, and elegance.
Featured in our upcoming auction is an exquisite selection of pieces by Buccellati, signed by Gianmaria Buccellati. Included, is this diamond collar necklace which is composed with textured bi-colour openwork links that are set with rows of brilliant cut diamonds.
Another Buccellati highlight is a diamond pendant necklace. The detachable oval pendant includes a pierced honeycomb and radiating design and is set with a brilliant cut diamond to the centre. The central design is accentuated with an ornate frame which is further adorned with diamonds.
Buccellati are renowned for drawing inspiration from fine fabrics, and this diamond bracelet and a pair of diamond earrings beautifully embody that influence while showcasing the house’s exceptional craftsmanship. Each link of the bracelet features a brilliant-cut diamond, set within a radiating, pierced surround and framed by additional brilliant-cut diamonds. Further stones are delicately positioned between each connector. Echoing this intricate, lace-like design, the earrings display a pear-shaped drop, centred with a pear-shaped diamond, encircled by a frame of brilliant-cut diamonds that enhance their luminous elegance.
Wednesday 19 November 2025, 10.30am GMT
Dreweatts, Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE, UK
Bidding is available in person at our salerooms, online, by telephone or you can leave commission (absentee) bids.
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