This November, Dreweatts' Fine Jewellery auction presents an especially captivating selection of signed jewellery, featuring creations from some of the most celebrated names in design history. Over the past year, collectors, both domestic and international, have shown a pronounced preference for signed pieces, not only from legendary houses such as Cartier and Boucheron, but also from more specialised makers including Georges L’Enfant and André Vassort. Collections like Bvlgari’s Monete and Cartier’s Grain de Café have continued to be popular, proving that the intersection of clever design and provenance remain popular in today’s market.

A Spotlight on Elegance: Cartier Art Deco Earrings

One of the standout lots in the auction is Lot 229, a magnificent pair of Cartier Art Deco diamond earrings. For anyone building their jewellery wardrobe, a pair of fringe earrings is nothing short of essential. These earrings, with their diamond-set design, come alive under candlelight, making them the perfect adornment for an elegant dinner party.

The clean geometric lines and symmetrical precision of the Art Deco era marked a bold departure from the soft, romantic motifs of the preceding Belle Époque period. The surmount of these earrings encapsulates that shift toward modernity. The inclusion of the fitted Cartier case adds a further layer of allure, an element that is increasingly coveted today. Indeed, antique Cartier boxes alone have become highly collectible, often fetching impressive sums on the secondary market due to their rarity.

The Brilliance of Jean Schlumberger

This auction also boasts a remarkable collection of six pieces by Jean Schlumberger, one of the most recognisable designers of the 20th century. His presence in the sale underscores an important trend: the rising desirability of specialised designers whose personal signatures boost the brands they worked for.

Schlumberger’s career is a fascinating study in creative evolution. Before his celebrated tenure at Tiffany & Co, where he was personally recruited by Chairman Walter Hoving, he honed his craft designing buttons and jewels for Elsa Schiaparelli, the famed couturière known for her avant-garde designs. His imaginative, nature-inspired forms would later become a hallmark of his jewellery.

Lots 54 and 55 in this auction showcase that distinct Schlumberger aesthetic: hyper-realistic designs that celebrate the natural world with sculptural grace. Intriguingly, these pieces also bear the maker’s mark of Henri Picq, a master craftsman whose workshop also produced some of the most intricate platinum work for Cartier. The convergence of these two great names, Schlumberger and Picq, results in jewels that are not only beautiful to look at, but also historically significant examples of collaboration at the highest level of craftsmanship.

The Rising Popularity of Italian Jewellery

Chunky gold statement jewellery has truly stolen the spotlight this year. With the price of gold having more than doubled since the start of 2024, it’s little wonder that these pieces are shimmering back into fashion’s forefront.

Italy, long celebrated as the heart of goldsmithing, continues to set the standard for craftsmanship. Home to iconic maisons like Bulgari and Buccellati, it remains a centre for those who appreciate both heritage and modern allure.

Lot 200 perfectly embodies this. Weighing just under 80 grams, it has a wonderful presence and features the intricate Byzantine chain, a design admired for its complexity and fluidity. Each link intertwines through four others, creating a hypnotic texture that speaks to the painstaking skill of traditional artisans. It’s a piece that exudes confidence and one that’s sure to captivate bidders.

Also featured in this auction are four exquisite creations by Buccellati, each showcasing the house’s unmistakable artistry. Their signature Rigato technique is one of my favourites from them, where fine, parallel lines are delicately engraved into the metal. It transforms gold into something almost textile-like, somewhat like woven silk.

Linking back to my earlier thoughts, pieces like lots 133-136 are the foundations of a truly curated jewellery wardrobe. For collectors and connoisseurs alike, this auction is an unmissable opportunity to add a touch of Italian glamour to your collection.

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Auction Details

Wednesday 19 November 2025, 10.30am GMT
Dreweatts, Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE, UK

Bidding is available in person at our salerooms, online, by telephone or you can leave commission (absentee) bids.

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VIEWING

• Viewing in London
  Dreweatts, 16-17 Pall Mall, St James’s, London SW1Y 5LU
  • Tuesday 11 November: 10am-4pm
  • Wednesday 12 November: 10am-4pm
• Viewing in Newbury
  Dreweatts, Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE, UK
  • Sunday 16 November: 10am-3pm
  • Monday 17 November: 10am-4pm
  • Tuesday 18 November: 10am-4pm

Further information
General enquiries: + 44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com
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