On Tuesday 24 November, we are delighted to present our monthly auction of Fine Wine, Champagne, Vintage Port & Spirits, featuring a remarkable collection of Domaine Coche-Dury. Offering vintages from 2002 to 2012, the collection provides a rare opportunity to acquire bottles from one of Burgundy’s most celebrated producers, privately purchased and carefully stored in a Lancashire cellar. Ahead of the sale, Senior Wine Consultant Mark Robertson reflects on the history of the Coche family, the distinctive character of these exceptional wines and the significance of their provenance.
I have always thought that owning a Burgundian vineyard could make one reconsider their family plans, as French inheritance law becomes complicated and fragmented the more children you have. In England we had a far more simple, less egalitarian approach - the first son got the land, the next joined the army, and the third became a vicar.
For a more simple explanation of how a modern Burgundian domaine was created, the history of the Coche family over the last 100 years may be a perfect example. Leon Coche started to purchase parcels of Meursault in 1923. On his death, the vines were passed to his three children, George, Julien and Marthe.
Julien’s parcel is now Domaine Fabien Coche. Marthe’s daughter married Guy Roulot and the vineyards Marthe inherited are now part of that famous estate. While George’s parcel, inherited by his son the legendary Jean-Francois is now Coche-Dury, named as such following his marriage to Odile Dury.
The upcoming auction offers a small but extraordinary collection. Not because they are the 1er crus or the fabled Corton-Charlemagne, but because of the rarity, quantity, quality and provenance of these wines. The Villages and Bourgogne from this Domaine perform at another level to any other.
To discover a hundred bottles of Coche Dury, purchased directly and stored in a cellar within thick brick walls in a small Lancashire village is unique. It is also rare to find a cellar of White Burgundy of this age with such clarity and constancy.
Domaine Coche Dury has normally escaped the perils of pre-oxidisation that so many of their illustrious neighbours can sometimes suffer from. Some say that they are left on their lees for a little longer. Who knows the secret? They all tell separate stories, but the appearance of these suggests that the wines are in perfect condition. A few labels bear the scars of a metal wine rack, and the nicks and scratches are just testimony that they were all purchased for drinking at home.
The wines offered in the auction are all from Meursault Villages and Bourgogne Blanc from 2002-2012. It is impossible to describe what makes these wines so special. Some say that Jean-Francois just has green fingers and was the first vigneron in his vineyard every day and the last out of his cellar at night. The pressing was very firm and consistent, and only a sparing amount of new wood is used during fermenting, but how the complex combination of fruit, concentration, acidity, gunflint, vanilla, power and elegance are achieved, remains a secret.
The wines of Domaine Coche Dury are without doubt the most important and sought after white wines in the world. Made in the final decade of Jean-Francois’s tenure, these astonishing bottles offered in November are an important part of Burgundian history.
Ahead of the sale, the client tells us “They were privately acquired over several decades through direct purchase, and this collection reflects a longstanding passion for Burgundy. The wines were sourced during regular visits to Meursault and neighbouring villages, facilitated by family friends with local connections.”
This is a live online auction with an auctioneer. The auction will take place on Tuesday 24 November (starting at 10.30am GMT) at Dreweatts Newbury, but please note all wine and spirits are stored off-site at LCB Eton Park. Bidding is available online, by telephone, by commission bids or in person at Dreweatts. Please contact Dreweatts to register all commission bids or telephone bids by 12 noon GMT the day before the sale.
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Dreweatts Wine Department
Mark Robertson | Violette Jongbloed | Emily Clarke | Lucy Dadd
Direct tel: +44 (0) 1635 553 594
Main tel: +44 (0) 1635 553 553
Email: wine@dreweatts.com
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