The Heritage of Birkin and Kelly

Each Birkin and Kelly bag is handmade by a single artisan, using the finest leather, and finished with the maker's stamp. The inspiration for the Birkin came to Jean-Louis Dumas, Executive Chairman of Hermès from 1978 to 2006, while travelling from Paris to London in 1984. Seated beside the English-born actress, singer and fashion icon Jane Birkin, he watched her struggle to fit a straw travelling bag into the overhead compartment as its contents spilled out. She explained that she could not find a bag large enough for everything she carried as a young mother, and the encounter inspired Dumas to create a handbag named after her.

Another timeless Hermès design is the Kelly bag. First created in 1935, it was originally known as the 'Sac à dépêches', or dispatch bag. In 1956, Hollywood actress Grace Kelly, by then Princess of Monaco, was photographed using it to shield her pregnancy from the press, and the bag soon became known as the 'Kelly'. Hermès officially adopted the name in 1977.

We are delighted to offer both designs in our forthcoming auction, including three Birkin bags in a range of sizes and colours. Leading the selection is a beautiful Birkin 40 in tan Togo leather, accompanied by a Birkin 35 in mushroom Togo leather, and a Birkin 30 in black Togo leather. Each example is beautifully preserved in its original dust bag. The auction also offers a 1972 black leather Kelly bag, characterised by its loop handle, gold-plated hardware and signature twist-lock clasp, the bag is accompanied by its original Hermès dust bag.

Hermès Silk Scarves, Carrés and Twillys

In 1937, to mark the house's centenary, Robert Dumas created the first Hermès carré, or silk square. It was an instant success, and was later worn by figures such as Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn, further adding to its popularity. The first carré was printed from a woodblock on Chinese silk. Today, each design is screen-printed by hand in Lyon, with a separate screen for every colour. The scarves' simple yet versatile design allows them to be worn in numerous ways: around the neck, as a belt or headscarf, or tied to the handles of a Birkin bag. Among the silk lots in the sale is a set of three Hermès Twilly bandanas.

Hermès Watches From the Arceau to the Heure H

Hermès watches combine French design with fine Swiss watchmaking, reflecting the house's evolution from saddlery specialist to respected watchmaker. Its equestrian roots are never far away: the Arceau, designed by Henri d'Origny in 1978, takes its distinctive lugs from the shape of a stirrup.

One of the house's most recognisable designs is the Heure H, created in 1996 by Philippe Mouquet, which frames the dial within the Hermès initial. The sale includes a lady's Heure H in 18 carat gold, with a diamond-set bezel and lugs, and a blue crocodile strap, as well as a limited-edition Nature at Full Gallop wristwatch in white gold.

Hermès Porcelain Vide-Poche

The Hermès porcelain vide-poche (French for 'empty pocket') is one of the most recognisable and coveted objects in the world of luxury home décor. Originally a practical tray for keys, coins and jewellery by the front door or bedside, it has become a canvas for the house's finest designs. 

Hermès porcelain is made in Limoges, the historic heart of French porcelain, where fine kaolin clay produces a crisp, translucent and durable hard-paste body. The house introduced its first porcelain table service, Les Pivoines, in 1984, its decoration taken from one of its silk carrés.

The auction features vide-poches that pay homage to Hermès’ equestrian heritage, including a pair decorated with dressage horses and another adorned with a painted pink jockey cap and riding crops.

Jewellery and Accessories

Hermès created its first piece of jewellery in 1927: the Filet de Selle bracelet, inspired, like so much of the house's work, by the world of riding. Everyday objects continued to provide inspiration. In 1938, Robert Dumas designed the Chaîne d'Ancre, based on the anchor chains of boats in Normandy. Crafting it in silver was a bold choice at a time when fine jewellers worked almost exclusively in gold and platinum, and it remains one of the house's most enduring designs.

Hermès continued to transform its most recognisable motifs into wearable art, introducing enamel bangles decorated with scarf designs in 1976. Since becoming creative director of jewellery in 2001, Pierre Hardy has brought fresh energy to these house signatures, from the handbag-inspired Kelly bracelet to collections such as Faubourg and Nausicaa.

The Faubourg collection is represented in the auction by a Mini Clic Kelly Faubourg City Confettis narrow bangle. The design draws inspiration from an imaginary city, bringing together the distinctive architecture of Tokyo, Seoul, New York, Shanghai and Paris, where the house’s recognisable motifs are woven into vibrant, graphic compositions. From the Hermès cavalryman soaring above the rooftops to the cheerful groom greeting passers-by, each detail contributes to a playful and colourful interpretation of the house’s heritage.

Other Auction Highlights

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Auction Details

Thursday 19 November, 10.30am GMT
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE

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Viewing at Dreweatts London: 16-17 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5LU
Tuesday 10 November: 10am-4pm
Wednesday 11 November: 10am-4pm

Viewing at Dreweatts Newbury: Donnington Priory, RG14 2JE
Saturday 14 November: 10am-3pm
Sunday 15 March: 10am-3pm
Monday 16 March: 10am-4pm
Tuesday 17 November: 10am-4pm

Further information
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