An exceptionally rare survival from the early development of English watchmaking, the watch combines an exquisitely executed gilt movement with a richly decorated gold and champlevé enamel dial, housed within a distinctive faceted rock crystal case. The watch is of particular significance for its early date and association with John Snow, one of the earliest known provincial English makers of signed and dated clocks and watches. Its sophisticated construction and highly refined decoration place it among the finest examples of its type to survive.

The Work of John Snow of Salisbury

Very little is known of John Snow, although his work provides an important insight into the development of provincial horology in seventeenth-century England. Brian Loomes, in Clockmakers of Britain 1286–1700, suggests that Snow was likely related to another maker of the same name who was working in Winterbourne Stoke and East Lavington during the 1620s. 

Extant dated clocks confirm that John Snow of Salisbury was working in the city by 1630. His marriage to Elizabeth Girdler is recorded in 1645, and he was buried at St Thomas’s, Salisbury, on 8 October 1661.

Only a small number of works by Snow are known today, comprising six lantern clocks and two watches, including the present example. His lantern clocks are particularly notable for their early dates, with three dating to 1630 and others to 1639, 1646 and 1650. He is therefore recognised as the earliest maker of signed and dated provincial lantern clocks.

Snow is also thought to have been the older brother of Nicholas Snow, who gained his freedom of the city of Salisbury in 1728. Nicholas continued the family’s clockmaking tradition, producing lantern clocks with distinctive frame castings comparable to those found on John Snow’s work. An example dating to 1636 is preserved in the collection of Salisbury Museum.

A Remarkable Rock Crystal Case

Rock crystal and other gem or hardstone cases began to appear on watches in central Europe around 1600, with examples subsequently produced in Germany, Paris and London. In England, this tradition was particularly associated with Huguenot immigrant watchmakers, while David Ramsay was among the most prolific English makers of rock-crystal cased watches.

The present watch is distinguished by its two-piece, faceted rock crystal case, which allows the finely decorated movement and dial to remain visible. The case is further enhanced by a gilt gold suspension ring with green enamelled decoration and pierced fretwork plates, while the hinged front cover and clasp are similarly ornamented.

The oval dial is particularly striking, decorated in emerald green and white champlevé enamel with stylised Arabesque scrollwork. A narrow gold Roman numeral chapter ring incorporates floating dot half-hour markers, while the sculpted steel hand features a distinctive triform tip and elongated tail.

Comparable rock-crystal watches with champlevé enamel dials are exceptionally scarce. These include an example by James Vautroillier, now in the collection of the Louvre, Paris, and a watch by David Bouquet dating to circa 1640.

Fine Watchmaking and Innovative Construction

While the watch follows established watchmaking practices of the period, several features demonstrate an unusual level of refinement.

The gilt single fusee movement is fitted with four finely pierced ‘Egyptian’ pillars, a notable refinement over the more commonly encountered baluster pillars of contemporary watches. The fine border-engraved backplate is applied with a balance cock decorated with asymmetric pierced and engraved tulip scrollwork, while the set-up ratchet cock incorporates a sculpted bell-flower form.

Of particular significance is the provision for winding the watch from either the front or rear. An additional arbor and intermediate wheel on the backplate engage with a corresponding wheel on the fusee arbor, allowing the watch to be wound without removing the movement from its case.

This is especially important given the construction of the rock crystal case, where removing the movement would otherwise be necessary to access the winding mechanism. The design of the back cock foot has been carefully adapted to act as a guard for the intermediate dial-winding wheel.

The rare detail of dial winding mirrors that of the remarkable emerald-cased watch discovered as part of the Cheapside Hoard, now in the collection of the London Museum.

A Significant Survival in English Horology

The present watch, together with the other known watch by John Snow, a silver-cased ‘puritan’ example illustrated by Snell, is among the earliest surviving watches signed by an English provincial maker.

Its combination of early date, sophisticated movement construction, exceptional decoration and rare rock crystal case makes it an important survival from the formative years of English horology. Indeed, it is considered likely to be the earliest high-style rock-crystal cased watch supplied by a maker outside London.

As such, this remarkable watch is of national importance in the context of early English horology and offers a rare opportunity to acquire an object that illustrates both the technical development and artistic ambition of seventeenth-century watchmaking.

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Auction Details

Thursday 10 September, 10.30am BST
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire, RG14 2JE

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